Psychobloc!

Psychobloc, the Mallorcan term for deep water soloing (climbing without ropes with the ocean below, otherwise known as deep water soloing (DWS)) has caught the rock climbing world by storm over the last 10 years.  Mallorca sits at the heart of the DWS universe so we had to experience it while we're here.  We headed to Cala Barques, a 15 minute drive from Cala D'Or that was supposed to be great climbing and not so scary.  First my opinions on DWS: it's really fun, totally unique being both liberating and terrifying at the same time.  After swinging around on the crazy jugs and tufas at Cala Barques, I can say that although it's great fun I still prefer roped climbing day in and day out.  Damn good fun though!

Cala Barques is a very popular local's beach for good reason.  Crystal clear blue water, white sand beach, rocks to climb on or jump off, it has lots going for it.  The parking leaves something to be desired, however, as you're on a narrow dirt with (very) limited places to turn around.

Once you find a place to park and hike through the woods, the beach and the bay open up before you.

The climbing takes place in a few separate caves, the first one simply called the Cova.  It's about 12m tall and is accessed by a downclimb (over deep water) on the right hand side.

Like all good climbing areas there are cute girls in bikinis hanging out all over the cliffs.

The climbing here is on jugs and stalactites with nothing much harder than 11d.  Here I am on a 11- that climbs steep jugs.

In the main areas I climbed one 5.10, two 5.11-s, and two 11ds.  We moved over to the next cave where there were some harder routes.  While I wasn't keen on falling, it didn't seem like I would get the full DWS experience without falling or at least getting close.  I decided to try one of the mid 5.12s with a crux up high, telling Theresa (who expertly took all of these pictures) to keep the camera rolling.

An overview of the 2nd cave:

The route starts off not so bad but then has some very long moves between good holds that leave you extended and feeling quite exposed.

Up high the crux revolves around a long move to a decent pocket and then another long move to a shelf.  In the summer the rock sweats, making some of the holds feel less than desirable.  You don't notice on the big holds but the pocket felt wet and greasy.  I tried making a big move off the pocket but I was off!

And I was in the briny!  The fall wasn't as bad as I might have thought although it was a bit scary at first.  Shoes, chalkbag, me, everything was now soaked.  We saw several people using liquid chalk at it seems like that's the way to go.  I tried the route once more but the sweaty holds and no chalk didn't add up to success.

Overall a fun day in a beautiful setting.  Thanks to Theresa for all the great pictures, the new camera worked great!